Sawt Falasteen - Yangon's furtive party scene belies junta claims of normality

Lasers streak the smoke-filled air and music is cranked up to 150 decibels, according to one DJ -- as loud as a jet engine at take-off -- but the weekend clubbers slumbering on sofas dotted around the warehouse-sized Yangon venue do not stir.

"That became a habit, they're used to it," said one 29-year-old veteran of the capital's elite party scene, who like other interviewees requested anonymity for security reasons.

The frenzied but furtive social scene contradicts the message from Myanmar authorities that the country is back to normal.

Five years after a military coup, they point out that they have held elections, installed a new government and ended Yangon's lingering 1:00 am to 3:00 am curfew.

But the polls were tightly curbed, excluding deposed leader Aung San Suu Kyi, and the commander of the putsch remains in charge as civilian president.

Meanwhile, the civil war sparked by his coup rages on.

Youngsters living under pressure want to let go but avoid being on the streets late -- many fear that the military or other armed groups may arbitrarily detain them or abduct them for conscription.

Since the coup, the rate of young people feeling "unsafe" or "very unsafe" walking alone at night has more than doubled to 40 percent, according to a 2025 UN report.

Yangon's streets are deserted by late evening.

Singer Sae Sar -- who performs under a stage name -- said such stresses fuel the appetite for nightlife even as they restrain it, giving Yangon's social scene its contradictory quality.

"I know my fans are tired all day," said the 24-year-old, adding: "If they keep all their feelings inside, it can cause many problems."

- 'Life is short' -

A night out may begin on Chinatown's neon-lit 19th Street, where beer bars spill onto the kerb.

The avenue is jammed on weekends, a rare artery of late-night action surrounded by streets abandoned to stray dogs as midnight approaches.

"Life is short as a drying drop of water. Don't be sad," a singer's voice wafts into the street.

"Things will get better. Try just to be happy."

Myanmar's 2021 coup saw pro-democracy protests violently put down by security forces and a dusk-to-dawn curfew imposed.

It was eventually winnowed to the wee hours before being lifted in December -- an apparent concession ahead of polls analysts dismissed as lip service to democracy.

Six months on there are "no more, but no less" people out at night, said one young woman hawking sachets of hangover remedy.

"People just want to be happy, even though they are worried," she said. "They're still going home early."

- Post-coup hangover -

When 19th Street quiets down around midnight, the party shifts to the Sanchaung area. Once a hotbed of post-coup protests, it has since thrived as a nightlife hive.

After the rallies were snuffed out, many activists joined factions fighting the military in a civil war which has killed tens of thousands, displaced more than 3.7 million people and left half the nation in poverty.

"Even when curfews were in place, young people were still out at night," said one 31-year-old Yangon DJ.

He reasoned authorities did not arrest them because people out partying "won't focus on the resistance".

But everyone AFP spoke to said post-coup nightlife carries a different energy.

Party narcotics have exploded on the scene: ketamine, ecstasy and "happy water" drug cocktails that often contain both stimulants and sedatives in unpredictable proportions, with clashing effects.

"These days people judge whether a DJ is good or bad based entirely on how well the music complements their drug high," the DJ lamented. "It is supply and demand."

In the club, the demand for escape from the outside world ends only at dawn -- when partiers stumble home, still suffering from a post-coup hangover.

R.AbuNasser--SF-PST